Monteseel holds a special place in the development of rock climbing in South Africa. It was here that the transition from the old alpha-numeric grading (E3, F1 etc) to the current numerical SA grading first occurred.

The transition came about because climbing standards were being pushed so hard here in the early 1980’s, that the old system just could not contemplate such rapid development. The developments at Montees in the late 70’s & early 80’s drew so much attention that the route guide reads like a who’s who of South African hardmen at the time. The charge was led by Mike Roberts (aka Microbe or “the Robe”) and Ian Wallace, but was joined shortly by the likes of Andy de Klerk, (aka AdK), Steve Bradshaw (Prof), Evan Wiercx, Gerald Camp, and Roger Natrass.  Lines like “White Rider” (26), “Child of Darkness” (25) and Zone Five (27) set a whole new standard in what was possible – all before “sport” climbing arrived.

However, these highpoints did not arrive out of the blue. A strong foundation of hard climbing started as far back as 1953 by Des Watkins including the classic “Adam” (14). Before you write it off; climb it in the knowledge that it was done in “kletterschuhe”, with a hawse laid rope around the waist, and slings, with the occasional piton. Sherman Ripley opened “Think” (16) in 1963 – a must do classic not to be underrated; and went on to open Pin Up (20) with aid. This was only freed for the first time in the mid 70’s by Mike Roberts or Dave Cheesmond and remains a test piece in the grade. Tony Dick & Roger Fuggle added to the foundation in early 70’s followed by Rich Smithers and John Fantini later in the decade. It was John who first proposed the move from the old grading to the Australian numerical system. And then the flood gates opened with routes by Dave Cheesmond, Ed February, Clive Curson, Kevin Smith, Mike Cartwright, Chris Jackson, Charles Edelstein, Gavin Raubenheimer, Andrew Russel Bolton – and many others.

Montes is over 2km long with close to 300 routes. While there are some two & three pitch routes, most are vertical, single pitch and access is from above. This makes for ideal conditions for working routes – either top roping or pre-placing gear. With grades starting from as easy as 8 – all the way to 27; there is something for everyone. It’s an ideal crag to learn to trad; or to push the grades. The rock is hard; reliable sandstone, polished at times; with lots of horizontal rails and flat edges. The crag faces North – and in winter it is the most wonderful escape from the cold in other parts of the country. There is little that competes with climbing shirtless on this stunning rock in the middle of winter.

The Black Diamond Tradathon has several goals:

• To promote a passion for trad climbing
• To introduce climbers from across the country to lesser-known venues
• To inculcate a sense to history & belonging in the traditions and community of trading in South Africa
• To allow beginners to rub shoulders and learn from experienced climbers in an environment of comradery & support
• To provide the participants with some awesome climbing

Monteseel is possibly the ideal venue for to achieve all of the above.  We hope to see you there.