QC Lab entries are part of the Black Diamond Experience. Select QC Lab on the filter criteria in Experience to see all existing QC Lab posts.

Unfortunately, the only way to know if “dropped” carabiners are fit for use is to test them to their breaking point. This doesn’t do you much good, now does it? It’s best to inspect dropped gear for dings and significant trauma. If only light scratching is visible and gate action is still good, there is a good chance it is fit for usage. Remember, only you know what your gear has been through and if there is any doubt, it’s best to retire the gear rather than take a risk.

Here are our suggestions on what to look for when retiring aluminum carabiners:

1) Check for good gate action: The open-gate strength of carabiners is roughly 1/3 of the closed-gate strength. If a biner has a gate that rubs or sticks open, it should be cleaned and lubed. If this does not improve gate action, the biner should be retired. The same holds true for any gate locking mechanism.

2) Check for excessive wear: If you can feel that the rope-bearing surfaces of the biner are significantly worn (wearing off the anodization is normal after a few uses) the biner should be retired.

3) Check for deformation: If a biner has been loaded such that the body or nose has deformed—or the carabiner gate rivets have been bent (this usually results in poor gate action)—the biner should be retired.

4) Check for nicks or deep scratches: If a biner has nicks or deep gouges beyond the normal light scratching that occurs in use, it should be retired. Carabiners are more susceptible to surface damage near the nose hook or within an inch of the bending radii of the body.

5) Has the carabiner been exposed to extreme heat? If a biner has been exposed to “extreme heat” (i.e. a fire) it should be retired and destroyed due to possible negative effects to the heat treatment the carabiner underwent when it was made.

6) Has the carabiner been exposed to harsh chemicals or excessive corrosion? If your carabiner has been exposed to aggressive chemicals (like battery acid, petroleum-based fuel, ect.) it’s a good idea to retire the biner. Likewise, any corrosion beyond the normal thin gray/white oxidation layer that forms on exposed aluminum should be grounds for retirement, especially if it starts to affect gate action (see #1).

In closing: Keep in mind that only YOU know what your gear has been through. If your instincts tell you that the gear is dubious, retiring it is a good idea. Confidence in your equipment is not only key to climbing at your limit but helps you stay relaxed and having fun.

In almost all situations, provided the placement is sound (good rock, not too slick or flared), a Micro Camalot of size .3 and above, will likely be reliable when fully retracted (only problem here is that the unit may be hard to remove) to 25% retracted. With the .1 and .2 Camalots being so small, they start to lose the ability to hold a fall at about 40% retraction.

We offer trigger wire repair and sling replacement on Black Diamond cams: $15 for trigger wires and $8 for new slings. More information here:


You can purchase Trigger Replacement kits at this link, which will save you time and money: Trigger Kits

Sorry, but we don’t offer this service. Aramide 5.5 mm cord that is perfect for reslinging Hexentrics.

In general, T-rated tools are usually defined as “intended for steep ice.” Think Viper, Cobra, Fusion, Reactor—tools for climbing waterfalls and mixed climbing. B-rated are usually defined as “Ice tools other than technical ice tools.” These are more along the lines of piolets for mountaineering, etc. Think Raven, Raven with Grip, Raven Pro, Raven Ultra, Venom, etc.

It gets slightly more confusing because, over time, the ratings and requirements have slightly shifted, so now it is possible, and common, to buy an ice tool that has a T-rated shaft, but a B-rated pick as well as a tool with a B-rated shaft and a T-rated pick.

So what do all these ratings mean, and why are they different? For simplicity’s sake, consider that all tools have to go through the same regimen of testing to be certified:

• 3-point bend test on the shaft (to simulate rappelling off an ice tool as a dead-man)
• Strength of head/shaft interface in use direction
• Strength of head/shaft interface perpendicular to “use direction”
• Torque test of pick
The difference between a shaft or pick attaining a rating is that the
 T-requirements are higher, so in general a T component is more
 durable and stronger.

So which tool and pick is right for the job? A lot of that is personal preference. For mountaineering, we recommend the Raven, Raven with Grip or Raven Pro; for ski mountaineering, perhaps the Raven Ultra. For a combination of mountaineering with some gully climbing or moderate vertical ice, the Venom is a really versatile tool.

For technical climbing one of our tech tools is the obvious choice: Cobra or Viper with leashes, Fusion or Reactor if you want to go leashless. T-picks are tougher and can take more abuse (Titan and Fusion). B picks (the Laser) are intended for steep ice, and generally perform really well but would be less durable, increasing the likelihood that they could bend or break. Your mileage may vary depending on competence and technique.

Get yourself a round 1/8 inch chainsaw file and a good ski-tuning file. Have a good pick on hand to use as a reference. Don’t use an electric power grinder, as they can overheat the pick and ruin the temper.

File the pick end first, trying to restore the original bevel angle, while not making a half moon shape out of the tip. Make sure you don’t make the tip angle too steep as it will be very fragile; if it isn’t steep enough, your placements won’t be as secure. File the flat hook on the bottom, stroking outward from you.

Repair damaged teeth using the chainsaw file. Use the flat side of the chainsaw file to return the original bevel of about 45 degrees, but not on the first tooth. Go slow, and use the reference pick, as filing off too much is worse than filing too little. The pick will need to be retired when you start filing past the first 3/8 inch tooth.

Use wooden blocks in a bench-mounted vise. Get a small flat file (6″ flat mill bastard) and a four inch “ignition file.” It’s a good idea to have another screw that’s in prime condition for use as a reference.

Work on the worst tooth first. The outside round radius isn’t super important, but make sure that it doesn’t have any burrs. The vertical part of the tooth should be free of burrs as well, but make sure to keep the beveled edge intact and trending inward. This should be sharpened inward to crush and force the ice shavings inside the screw. Your goal is to restore the teeth to their original shape, with the tips in the same plane. Remove as little material as possible and avoid removing the radius in the corner. Touch up any burrs on the threads and pay particular attention to the starting thread. Finally, give the inside diameter a quick shot of WD-40. Always dry your screws with the protective caps removed and use the caps for transit.

The Fang was built around the spike and pommel of the Viper for strength and durability, and will not work on any other BD ice tools, or tools from other manufacturers.

We offer three different size crampon toe bails so you can get the best fit to your specific boot. Our Narrow toe bail is designed to fit narrow toe welts on most newer-school leather ice boots and or smaller sizes of these boots. The Regular toe bail is the size that traditionally has come with our crampons and is designed to fit regular toe welts, typically 80% of ice climbing boots made today. The Wide Toe Bail is designed to fit wide toe welts such as double plastic mountaineering boots and ski boots. Please reach out to our customer service team at climb@bdel.com if you’re unsure which bail is right for your boots.

Black Diamond receives several inquiries every day from students and researchers requesting detailed information on everything from manufacturing processes to product development. We are honored that so many would consider us for these individual projects and research papers, yet due to staffing constraints and the proprietary nature of the majority of this information, we are not able to fulfill these requests. While many of these projects are undoubtedly worthwhile, we simply do not have the resources to address the majority of these requests. A good bit of info on our Quality Control and Testing can be found in the Experience section of our website, under the “QC Lab” filter.

If you would still like to pursue your request, you can submit a proposal in writing. Your request must be accompanied by the following information:

1) Your name, address, phone number and email address.
2) School/educational institution name and address.
3) Instructor(s) name and contact phone number.
4) Detailed outline of your project, including what SPECIFIC information you require, why you require it and what it will be used for.
5) Original projects on questions that we may not know the answer to generally have a better chance of receiving support.
We will review all requests for information and decide on a case-by-case basis which ones we can help with. Others will be returned with our sincere apologies. Requests should be sent to:

Black Diamond Quality Assurance
2084 East 3900 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84124
Thank you for your interest in Black Diamond Equipment and our sincere apologies for any inconvenience this policy may cause you.[/vc_column_text][/vc_tta_section][vc_tta_section title=”HIKING/TREKKING” tab_id=”1569913291276-97ebe832-399e”][vc_column_text]Q. Can I replace the LED bulbs in my BD headlamp?
A. No. LED bulbs have no filament and are made of a super-strong resin, so the likelihood of them breaking or burning out is slim. However, if they do fail we encourage you to send your bulb in to our Warranty Department:

Black Diamond Warranty and Repair
2084 East 3900 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84124
(801) 365-5555

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